Spring/Summer 14

The Wool Lab Spring Summer 2014 BagThe Wool Lab Spring Summer 2014 showcased seven inspiring themes.

The Wool Lab is a seasonal guide to the best wool fabrics and yarns in the world.

Themes

New Victorian

New Victorian

Inspirations

The theme is inspired by the new Victorian style of the American 1920s, to the American dream pulsating with the energy of jazz music, to the love of life expressed by a smart creative dress code.

The atmosphere is relaxed and lively, with gentlemen and ladies elegantly yet not conventionally dressed and communicating a decontracté mood, with personal touches and unexpected details characterizing each outfit.

The colour palette is very conservative, made of basic shades, such as beige, ivory, black, blue and grey.

Materials

100 per cent fine Merino wool, wool mixes with noble fibres such as silk and mohair, celebrating Cool Wool for a sunny and fresh elegance. Classic weaves and patterns. Pin stripes, Checks. Light and medium weight. Worsted circular knit, crêpe yarns, micro effects.

Salon de Thé

Salon de Thé

Inspirations

A colour-focused and feminine trend, inspired by the soft and elegant atmospheres of Parisian thé salons and cafés, during the 1950s and 60s, when women used to dress in light and dense colours. Refined and elegant femininity, with a sophisticated sense of colour, and a taste for romantic shapes and volumes, mixing “garden party” details with inspirations from Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette.

The colour palette is inspired by the creamy pastels of macarons and includes shades of green, pink, yellow, violet, cream and caramel.

Materials

100 per cent fine Merino wool, wool/silk and wool/viscose in classic and sophisticated weaves and patterns: plain weave, ottoman, piquet, light double face, crêpe sablé, ajouré, natté. Yarns: fine crêpe wool, wool/viscose, wool/silk fresh touch.

The Dreamer

The Dreamer

Inspirations

The theme is inspired by the mythic movie by Herzog, Fitzcarraldo, with Klaus Kinsky in the role of an intense businessman and adventurer, full of dreams, whose spirit is perfectly expressed by an epic sentence of the film: "Those who dream can move mountains". Fitzcarraldo acts as an icon of the last true dreamers - artists - at the beginning of the 1900s that have put primary emphasis on the realization of their dreams. The “lived” elegance of Fitzcarraldo is the leitmotif of the theme.

The mood is romantic, decadent and of timeless elegance, with the iconic mannish three piece being the most representative outfit. The overall atmosphere is a mix of nature and strong feelings and emotions, a “Sturm und Drang” revisited with a tropical touch, for climatic needs.

The colour palette is made of natural shades of grey, ivory, cream and brown.

Materials

Wool is in 100 per cent or mixed with vegetal fibres such as linen, hemp, nettle or cotton to give a sort of vintage and worn look, which is also emphasized by the weaves and patterns of the fabrics that include herringbone, Glen check. Lightly crushed and washed effects.

Clean

Clean

Inspirations

Anti-fashion theme inspired by the minimalist and conceptual style of the 798 Art District of Beijing, that houses a thriving artistic community, among 50-year old decommissioned military factory buildings of unique architectural style. Often compared with New York's Greenwich Village or SoHo, the 798 area is still today the most influential cultural spot in China, gathering artists, designers, performers, art galleries and architecture studios, representing the “intelligentsia” of modern China.

The mood is intellectual and sophisticated; volumes are de-structured and fluid, experimenting with detailed functionalities, without defined boundaries between mens and womenswear.

The colour palette is clean and sober, made of natural shades of greys, ivory, brown, beige and black. The look is characterised by layering and contrasts between structured fabrics and very fine, almost transparent knits and jersey.

Materials

100 per cent Merino wool or blended with silk, linen and cotton. Fabrics are usually very light and surfaces are sometimes irregular. Weaves are often airy and patterns reflect the neutrality of the theme: gauze, crepe, plain weave. Dry feeling, lightly washed. Plain jersey, airy ajourè. Multi-light-layers.

Wearing Art

Wearing Art

Inspirations

Recalling the cultural movements and avant-garde of the 1960-70s, dresses are no longer simple clothing, but works of wearable art. An escape from the standard, to combat conventionality and austerity in hard times.

An explosion of colours, fantasies, prints and dyeing effects, displayed in an intense, energetic colour palette.

Volumes are fluid, an invitation to freedom and movement. Strong elements of handcraft are also included.

Materials

100 per cent fine Merino wool or wool mixed with cotton and viscose, for multicolour printed or woven fabrics. Yarns for knitwear are mainly thick, fancy, printed, mouliné. Wool Jersey here is very important.

Ellis Island

Ellis Island

Inspirations

This theme is inspired by the look, strength and hopes of those people who moved to new frontiers, looking for a better life.

The mood is that of an urban yet rustic elegance, inspired by the style of immigrants of the 1940s and '50s.

The colour palette is made of grey, black, beige and blue shades, on wide-legged pants and loose shirts, for a relaxed look, sometimes completed with more formal blazers.

Materials

In 100 per cent light and fresh Merino wool or wool/cotton blends, the weaves and patterns of the fabrics embody privileged old drapery tastes and stripes, with worn and washed effects, characterizing jersey and knitwear included in the theme.

Contadino

Contadino

Inspirations

Inspired by the rustic yet elegant style of the Italian countryside workers of the 1940s, who used to dress with specific rules of formality and distinction, in a more refined derivation of Mediterranean taste.

Pants, blazers, gilets and shirts for men, rounded long skirts and blouses for women are the iconic uniforms of this kind of dressing, which expressed the dignity of humble farmers and country workers.

The theme is in line with a lifestyle trend that celebrates rustic living, raw materials, country and genuine goods and food, “KM 0” and “back to earth” philosophy, encompassing interior design, architecture, food and beverage, hospitality and fashion.

The colour palette is natural and “earthy” including all the shades of country fields and products with a predominance of grey, browns, black and beige with touches of red, blue, green and cream. The look is worn and washed.

Materials

100 per cent wool or blended with cotton and other vegetal fibres. Traditional prints on women’s dresses. Pin-stripes and seersucker, drills. Sunshot effect. The fabrics and knits look is mostly worn and washed.