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Traditional tailoring gets an update with Wool Denim at Amsterdam Denim Days

15 April 2016

The Woolmark Company will this year take part in Blueprint - the denim trade and consumer show - joining forces with Dutch suit manufacturer The Makers and premium Italian weaver Berto to showcase a series of contemporary Wool Denim suits. Held April 15 and 16, Blueprint is part of the larger Amsterdam Denim Days, attracting international visitors and lovers of all things denim.

 

A partially lined, unstructured jacket and leisure trouser, helping you easily make the transition from day to night whilst still maintaining a contemporary look and feel.

As denim continues to remain one of the world’s most popular fabrics, the interest in the use of Wool Denim is on the rise. Previous attempts to create wool blends in denim have used an intimate blend of wool with cotton - two fibres which are not easy to combine in a yarn. Yet by replacing some, or all, of the weft yarns with machine washable Merino wool, a higher performance and more cost effective fabric can be produced. Because the wool yarns being used are 100 per cent pure, consumers benefit from the fibre’s attributes, including its natural resilience and elasticity to create new textures, drape and next-to-skin comfort, and most importantly, an increase in the level of warmth in your denim apparel.

At Amsterdam Denim Days, The Woolmark Company, The Makers and Berto will unveil three different customised suits, all made from Wool Denim, composed of 65 per cent Merino wool and 35 per cent cotton. The collection, titled 3x8, highlights three moments during the 24 hours of a day where these suits can be worn, including:

  • Urban: A utilitarian-style suit well matched for everyday activities. Designed for those whose main mode of transportation is a bicycle, this suit has been adapted with a magnet to fold the leg of the trousers to avoid it getting stuck between the bike chain as well as the capability to tie the front of the suit to prevent it blowing in the wind whilst riding.
  • Lounge: A partially lined, unstructured jacket and leisure trouser, helping you easily make the transition from day to night whilst still maintaining a contemporary look and feel.
  • Smoking: Streetwear meets tuxedo with this Wool Denim suit. The Makers’ Paris Fit is perfect for the man who feels too stiff and formal in a regular tux, but needs a suit for that special evening occasion.

Streetwear meets tuxedo with this Wool Denim suit. The Makers' Paris Fit is perfect for the man who feels too stiff and formal in a regular tux, but needs a suit for that special evening occasion.

“Merino wool has traditionally been used in more formal apparel products,” explains The Woolmark Company Managing Director Stuart McCullough. “So to enable wool to regain some of its market share from cotton and take advantage of the trend towards casualisation, we have worked closely with the manufacturing industry to develop new innovations and processes that provide unique and casual effects on wool fabrics.

“Joining forces with Berto and The Makers to create the 3x8 collection further allows us to not only update traditional tailoring methods and reinterpret the conventional suit, but also highlights the innate versatility of Merino wool and passes the fibre’s natural benefits on to consumers.”

Proudly operating a 100 per cent ‘Made in Italy’ production chain, Berto also operates a department exclusively for high-end denimwear, called Blue Selvedge - one of the fabrics of the luxury line Manifattura 1887, fratelli Berto. All Blue Selvedge fabrics are woven on Belgian Picanol shuttle looms from the 1950s, controlled by master craftsman. It’s this rare traditional process that makes Blue Selvedge fabrics so special, unique in colour, softness and appearance.

A utilitarian-style suit designed for those whose main mode of transportation is a bicycle.

Dutch suiting manufacturer The Makers will customise this Blue Selvedge fabric into suits, introducing traditional tailoring to a new contemporary customer - one who has in the past shied away from a conventional suit. As womenswear continues to see a trend of classical tailoring and structured silhouettes becoming evermore popular, the suits are not just restricted to the modern man. The androgynous style is also fascinating women who seek to interpret this timeless elegance.

“The Makers embraced the idea of ‘denim tailoring’ as a unique opportunity to unite traditional tailoring and denim culture into a new dynamic fashion experience,” said The Makers co-owner Jacques Van Gils.

The 3x8 suits will be on display at The Woolmark Company’s concept space at Blueprint and can be ordered made-to-measure by an in-house tailor for Blueprint visitors.

International Woolmark Prize menswear finalist Jonathan Christopher will also showcase his capsule collection at Amsterdam Denim Days. Together with ITV Denim the Dutch designer created a machine washable Wool Denim fabric that retains the natural denim look on the outside whilst resembling a soft Merino wool blanket on the inside.