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Fashion

Blue Rinse


As a destination for all those with an indigo heart, Amsterdam Denim Days is a globally renowned event bringing together style devotees and manufacturing innovators alike to celebrate the enduring appeal of denim. In association with Dutch suit manufacturer The Makers and premium Italian weaver Berto, The Woolmark Company will later this week take part in Blueprint, the trade and consumer show that forms part of Amsterdam Denim Days.


As denim continues to remain one of the world’s most popular fabrics, the interest in the use of Wool Denim is on the rise. Previous attempts to create wool blends in denim have used an intimate blend of wool with cotton – two fibres which are not easy to combine in a yarn. Yet by replacing some, or all, of the weft yarns with machine washable Merino wool, a higher performance and more cost effective fabric can be produced. Because the wool yarns being used are 100 per cent pure, consumers benefit from the fibre’s attributes, including its natural resilience and elasticity to create new textures, drape and next-to-skin comfort, and most importantly, an increase in the level of warmth in your denim apparel.

As denim continues to remain one of the world’s most popular fabrics, the interest in the use of Wool Denim is on the rise. Previous attempts to create wool blends in denim have used an intimate blend of wool with cotton – two fibres which are not easy to combine in a yarn. Yet by replacing some, or all, of the weft yarns with machine washable Merino wool, a higher performance and more cost effective fabric can be produced. Because the wool yarns being used are 100 per cent pure, consumers benefit from the fibre’s attributes, including its natural resilience and elasticity to create new textures, drape and next-to-skin comfort, and most importantly, an increase in the level of warmth in your denim apparel.

At Amsterdam Denim Days, The Woolmark Company, The Makers and Berto will unveil three different customised suits, all made from Wool Denim, composed of 65 per cent Merino wool and 35 per cent cotton. The collection, titled 3x8, highlights three moments during the 24 hours of a day where these suits can be worn, including a utilitarian-style suit, a lounge suit and a more formal smoking suit, as pictured in this article. 

Proudly operating a 100 per cent ‘Made in Italy’ production chain, Berto also operates a department exclusively for high-end denimwear, called Blue Selvedge – one of the fabrics of the luxury line Manifattura 1887, fratelli Berto. All Blue Selvedge fabrics are woven on Belgian Picanol shuttle looms from the 1950s, controlled by master craftsman. It’s this rare traditional process that makes Blue Selvedge fabrics so special, unique in colour, softness and appearance.

Dutch suiting manufacturer The Makers will customise this Blue Selvedge fabric into suits, introducing traditional tailoring to a new contemporary customer - one who has in the past shied away from a conventional suit. As womenswear continues to see a trend of classical tailoring and structured silhouettes becoming ever more popular, the suits are not just restricted to the modern man. The androgynous style is also fascinating women who seek to interpret this timeless elegance.

International Woolmark Prize menswear finalist Jonathan Christopher will also showcase his capsule collection at Amsterdam Denim Days. Together with ITV Denim, the Dutch designer created a machine washable Wool Denim fabric that retains the natural denim look on the outside whilst resembling a soft Merino wool blanket on the inside.

Mitchell Oakley Smith is The Woolmark Company’s Global Content & Creative Manager. His writing has appeared in Architectural Digest, Belle, GQ, Harper’s Bazaar, Interview, The Australian and Vogue, and he is the author of five books on art, fashion and design.